Propagating Fig (and elderberry) Cuttings – Instructions provided by R Cantor

Wrap them in damp paper towels and refrigerate. Be sure there's no mold periodically. They'll do just as well if you let them dry to touch then store them in a zip lock in the fridge. In April, orient the fig cuttings right side up. To do this, look at the leaf scars. The rounded side points down, the flat side points up. It should look like a smile. Above most of the leaf scars there should be 2 bumps. They can be tiny or the size of the ball on a ball point pen or even bigger.

Once you have it pointed up there are many ways to root them but one overarching principle. The entire cutting needs to stay moist but also have air exposure. If you use some dense potting soil the chances of rotting are higher. If they dry out because of not enough water they won't survive, either.

The most widely successful methods use perlite or coco coir. If you use perlite you need it to be super coarse. I've found Ag #3 to be the best but even with that you have to rinse the dust out or it will stick to and drown the cutting. 'Grow Your Own' Hydroponics can get it but it's ~$50 for a 4 cu' bag. I root hundreds and go through a few bags per year so if you want it in small quantities I'll sell it in quart or gallon ziplocks to recoup my costs.

If you use coco coir you have to be careful which brand. Roots and Botanicare are available at 'Grow Your Own' and have worked well. Some others have long fibers or excessive salt or chip-like particles that make them inappropriate for this purpose.

You can just stick a fig or elderberry cutting in the ground or a pot and hope for the best but if you only have 3 fig cuttings and want to maximize your chances of rooting, here's how.
 

Use a clear or translucent plastic cup or bag that's got drainage holes punched in the bottom and is at least an inch or 2 taller than the cutting and 1.5" wider at least. Quik Trip or other plastic cups are great but the styrofoam ones break down too quickly. Transparent or translucent are best because you can see the roots developing.
 

Hold the cutting so you know which end is up. Anything more than about 1/4" above the top node should be cut off. Leave all wood at the bottom unless there's mold, then cut the mold off. If there's black, cut it off until you get to healthy wood, sterilizing after each cut. Along the bottom most segment of wood gently scratch away some bark to expose the green layer underneath. You want the scratch anywhere from 1/3 - 1" long, parallel to the length of the cutting, and 1/16 - 1/8" wide. Do that on the opposite side of the bottom segment of the cutting also.

You can soak that in willow water, Dyna-Grow K-L-N for an hour or so or skip that step. You can brush on some Clonex to the green scrapes if you want. All that is optional but may speed up the process.

If you're using coco coir, just before you're ready to put the cutting in the container, rehydrate the coir with water as hot as is comfortable. Hot water will speed up the hydration and be good for the cutting. It should not be so hot it hurts. Once the coir is hydrated squeeze it out until you can't get any more water out.

Next, measure the cutting against the container you plan to use. If the container is more than 3" taller than the cutting, use something else, fold down the top or just use extra rooting media in the bottom. The rooting media is the coco coir or Perlite. Pour enough medium in so the cutting will rest on the medium and be even with the top of the container. Add extra coir because it will settle a bit. Do not tamp down the medium. Sprinkle extra medium around the cutting until you reach the top of the container but do not cover the top of the cutting. No more than 1/8" of the cutting should stick out. I add a small pinch of peat moss if I'm using perlite so there are some organic acids in the mix.

At this point if you're using perlite you want to water it with water that's as warm as is comfortable for you. It should be as warm as a hot tub.

Now you wait. Keep them in the dark, optimum temp is between 72 and 78 and in my experience they root faster if it's cooler at night and warmer in the day within that range. Check them daily. You have to check the top and sides. If there are no roots but you see a green bud or leaf you get them into bright indoor light right away. If the green is at the side of a bag or cup you have to cut an opening for that leaf to get out into the air and light. A 100 W CFL a few inches from the green works well. If you get long, lanky growth now it will mean a weak foundation for the plant. You check for roots at the bottom and sides of the container and when you have roots at least 2" long you can up pot to a mix that drains very well. Miracle grow potting soil is not that. I use Pro-Mix with Mycorrhizae and Biofungicide.

To get the plant out: If using bags, slit them down the sides where there are no roots and hold the top of the cutting pointing it down into a container. If there was no mold and no gnats you can reuse the medium if you want so catch it in something. When the plant is free pot it up with as little root disturbance as possible. I keep the roots 1 - 2" above the bottom but also bury as much of the cutting as possible. The more wood that's underground the better the plant will survive adverse conditions. Each time I pot up I bury more wood.

If using cups water it with warm water, turn it upside down keeping one hand hold the top of the wood with fingers against the medium. Gently flex the sides of the cup until the medium lets loose but prevent an avalanche. Slowly withdraw the plant and medium from the cup. This works best submerged in warm water if you have a small plastic tub. You can angle the cup down without getting it vertical. Some people cut a slit in the side of the cup and tape it from the outside to root, then remove the tape to get the cutting out.